We were young lieutenants in Vietnam mid-1969 through mid-1970. Rick was an Army infantry platoon leader in the Central Highlands. Terry was an Air Force pilot based in the Delta. We have been friends, through hang gliding, for 20 years. We leave February 1 for three weeks, DEROS 22 FEB 12.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Saturday:  Whew, feeling much better.  Spent yesterday recovering, but did manage to get out and walk a bit in downtown Hue.  It’s rained for three days and seems to slow the mass of humanity that we’ve seen on most city streets.  Kind of strange to see all the scooter drivers wearing ponchos and their passengers tucked up under the back.  That’s the way I’d want to ride on the back, totally blind to the rest of the traffic around me. Took a taxi to the other side of the Perfume River, past the Citadel, the fortress surrounding the Imperial City., former capital of Vietnam. This area, constructed in 1804 was the site of some the most serious fighting during the 1968 Tet Offensive.  After the NVA  and Viet Cong violated the Tet Truce agreement and launched the attack which resulted in the bloodiest battle of the war, US Marines spent the next month, fighting house to house to regain control of Hue.  A large amount of the city was destroyed and 5,400 civilians killed, most massacred.  The majority of the buildings in the Imperial City were destroyed by US bombing during that fight.  Most have been reconstructed, though damage is still evident in the fortress walls.  Even though the NVA/VC were defeated, the American public began to question the war.  Wish it wasn’t raining, would like to spend the day walking the gardens.  Going to catch the overnight train to Hanoi, first train ride since I was a young soldier in Germany. Rick
Sunday:  Train ride was a good experience.  Glad we booked the luxury accommodations, with soft  berths.  Was still pretty primitive by western standards. Very third world rail system, but arrived in Hanoi right on time.  Compartment mate was a very nice fellow from California, who markets projection equipment throughout Asia.  Had dinner in the dining car,  like something out of an old western movie, wooden benches, lurching train, unidentifiable chicken parts in gravy, mystery vegetables and 333 Beer.  All three meals were 150,000 dong…good thing we’re still millionaires. Added a roommate after dinner, a Vietnamese national who spoke no English, but snored worse than Terry.  Slept sporadically, as the train lurched and rattled it’s way North.  Kinda strange getting up in the night, crawling down from the narrow berth, staggering down the hall to use the “bombsight” toilet in the next car.  All in all the overnight train was a worthwhile experience I’d repeat if ever traveling again over here.  Sure beat all the bus rides we’ve taken over here.  
Monday:  Exited the Hanoi train station at 5AM to experience the worst taxi chaos we’ve experienced yet.  Taxi ride through the early morning deserted streets of Hanoi was really interesting.  Our hotel was locked up tight, but and adjacent hotel’s coffee shop was open and allowed us to hang out enjoying wonderful coffee and pastries until ours opened. 
Really had no idea what to expect the attitude towards Americans to be here in Hanoi, after all the death and destruction caused by the years of American bombing.  So far, we have found zero animosity towards us, very friendly, outgoing and at every turn.  Heading out for a walking tour of the city, then meet up with a local paraglide pilot for some beers and flying stories.  Only two days here, then starting the trek back to the States.  Rick

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